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Svoemesto kayfun 3. 1

SvoeMesto Kayfun 3.1 – Todo lo que necesitas saber (en ingles)


Hoy os comentaba por mi página de Facebook, Twitter e Instagram, que estrenaba, después de más de un mes de espera,  mi clon del SvoeMesto Kayfun 3.1 comprado en Fasttech. Podéis seguir este enlace para ver cual fue el que compre. Aquí os dejo más entradas relacionadas con este atomizador reparable.

Realicé un setup básico a 2.5 ohm y el resultado fue…. IMPRESIONANTEEEEEE!

Tuve un ligero contratiempo al no poder rellenar el tanque a través del orificio de rellenado y busque el manual en castellano para solucionar mis dudas. Desafortunadamente solo lo encontré en ingles y por lo tanto me gustaría compartirlo con vosotros.

Aqui va! y no dudéis de este Ato… en impresionante!

Descarga el manual en Ingles o visita la web del SvoeMesto

Rebuildable atomizer SvoeMesto Kayfun v3.1 ES – User manual
Kv3. 1 usermanual 01


Kv3. 1 usermanual 12

Material: Stainless Steel
The material of the transparent body: Polycarbonate
Diameter: 22 mm
Connector Type: 510
Dimensions (not including connectors and mouthpiece) / volume:
Standard: 60 mm. / ~ 4.5 ml.
Long version: 81 mm / ~ 10 ml.
Super-long version: 102 mm / ~ 15 ml.
Long and super-long versions can be built with extra body and one (long version) or two (super-long version) evaporation chamber extenders. Extra body and evaporation chamber extenders are not included in the base kit. In theory, length/volume can be extended indefinitely with additional bodies and extenders. Each extension step adds 21 mm in length and about 5 ml. of volume to the atomizer. However, the longer the tank, the greater the chance of leakage because the longer tank can’t keep low pressure due to large volume of air in it. This can potentially lead to flooding.

Atomizer SvoeMesto Kayfun v3.1 ES (hereinafter – Kayfun) consists of the following components:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 02
1. Collector-tank
2. Base
3. Evaporation chamber
4. Body
5. Top cap
6. Mouthpiece

Collector-tank (1)

Collector tank acts as a small reservoir to collect any excess liquid that can leak. Leakage can occur at the base of the atomizer while refilling or when the user performs a strong inhalation of the device.
Collector-tank has a 510 connector and is compatible with any battery mod that also supports the 510.

Collector-tank (1) consists of three parts:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 03
1a. Central pin screw
1b. Center pin insulator
1c. The body of the collector-tank

Collector tank is screwed to the bottom of atomizer base.

The order of assembly of the collector-tank:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 04
– Insert (1b) into (1c)
– Insert (1a) into (1b)
– Screw (1c) into the bottom of atomizer base (2)
– Screw (1a)

Use central pin screw (1a) to adjust the height of the central pin and customize it for different battery mods with different depth of central contact.

Atomizer base (2) 

Atomizer base (2) is the most important and most complex part of the device:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 05

2a – Bottom part of the atomizer
2b – Air adjustment screw
2c – the air intake
2d – O-ring, ensuring the tightness of the contact with the body (4)
2e – Negative pole
2f – Positive pole
2g – Coil screws
2h – Air duct
2i – Screw holes for alternate mounting of the coil
2j – Grooves for supplying liquid from the tank to the evaporation chamber (3) and air outlet from the evaporation chamber to the tank
2k – Positive pole insulator (2f)
2l – Refilling valve
2m – E-liquid duct. Liquid flows through it into the tank when filling through the valve (2l)
2n – Air inlet
2o – Center pin insulator (2h)
2p – Air inlet

Evaporation chamber (3) 

Evaporation chamber (3) consists of two parts:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 06

3a – the body of the evaporation chamber
3b – the cap of the evaporation chamber

The body of the evaporation chamber (3a) is screwed to the atomizer base (2). The cap of the evaporation chamber (3b) is screwed onto the body of the evaporation chamber (3a).
Evaporation chamber is made of two parts to simplify wick installation.

Atomizer body (4) 

Atomizer body (4) consists of the following elements:

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4a – Metal rings
4b – Transparent polycarbonate ring
4c – o-rings to ensure tight seal between rings (4a) and (4b)

Base kit comes with two versions of (4b): clear and metallic.
Clear ring allows you to visually monitor the amount of liquid in the tank; metallic ring provides the highest reliability.
WARNING: transparent ring is a consumable item and is not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. 

Top cap (5) 

Cap (5) consists of:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 08

5a – cap
5b – o-ring ensures tight connection to the body (4)
5c – o-ring, ensuring tight connection with the cap of the evaporation chamber (3)

Cover (5) is screwed onto the body (4) with the top of the evaporation chamber (3b) resting against o-ring (5c)

Mouthpiece (6) 

Kv3. 1 usermanual 09

Wrapping the coil 

The coil is made of resistance wire wrapped around the wick – folded in several layers of silica rope.
The ends of the wire are fixed under the cap screws (2g).
The coil is located diagonally between the screws (2g) at 1.5 – 2 mm above the air duct (2h), so that incoming air is distributed evenly round the coil when the user inhales.
Tails of the wick fit in the free space along the sides of the poles (2e) and (2f), so that they are above the grooves (2j), but don’t get into them.

Kv3. 1 usermanual 10

Alternative mounting of the coil 

Kayfun allows an alternate way to mount the coil with the help of 4 headless screws (not included in the kit). Remove the screws (2g), put the ends of the coil into (2g) screw holes and fasten with headless screws located at 2i.

Principles of operation
“Atomizer” is from the word “atomize” meaning “to break down into atoms”. The atomizer contains a resistance coil that is energized using an attached battery. When the coil is covered with e-liquid and the battery is engaged, the coil heats up quickly and boil the lower layer of e-liquid. This vaporization (or so-called “Explosive evaporation”) forms a steam “cocoon” around the coil. This cocoon rises and expands in volume atomizing the upper layer of e-liquid on the coil. This, subsequently, produces a mixture of steam and dispersed liquid particles which we perceive as a “smoke”. Since there is no combustion used in this process, the result of atomization is not smoke but vapor, to be more accurate – fog.

The e-liquid is stored in the tank system which is located between the walls of the outer chassis and the evaporation chamber. The evaporator chamber (3) has special grooves (2j) that serve as ducts for e-liquid to flow into the evaporation chamber which is mounted to the atomizer base (2). The tank is sealed and air tight when the cap is closed, so liquid does not flood the evaporation chamber through these grooves – air pressure inside the tank prevents it.
Drinking bowl for birds works on the same principle: liquid does not come out of turned upside down water-filled bottle if you deep bottle neck in a bowl of water. Water comes out of the bottle only when the level of liquid in the bowl drops below the level of the bottle neck – then some amount of water will pour out, fill the bowl up the bottle – and then stop again.

Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with your finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon as you release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges. Kayfun works on the same principle.

When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber which draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (2j) into the evaporation chamber where it gets absorbed by the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the transfer of e-liquid to the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the pressure in both the evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the tank through the ducts.

During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (2j) and after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually observed as air bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).

E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is saturated and distributes e-liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and «atomizes» liquid. At the next inhalation this cycle is repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.

Assembling Kayfun 

Kayfun assembly occurs in the order in which the details are numbered:

The collector-tank (1) is screwed in atomizer base (2).
Wick/coil assembly is installed.
Evaporation chamber (3) is screwed in atomizer base (2), then body (4), cover (5) and mouthpiece (6) are screwed onto each other.

Disassembly happens in the reverse order.

Filling e-liquid

Kayfun filling can be done in two ways.

Method #1 («classic»)
– Unscrew the cap (5)
– Pour e-liquid into the space between the body (4) and vaporizing chamber (3)
– Screw the cap back on

Method #2 (through the valve)
For the filling through the valve you will need a bottle with a thin plastic nose. Nose diameter should be suitable to the filling port.

– Turn Kayfun mouthpiece down
– Insert the nose of the bottle in the valve opening (2l)
– Fill the tank by squeezing the bottle. The air will escape from the tank into evaporation chamber through the same grooves (2j).
– Take out the nose of the bottle from the valve, turn Kayfun mouthpiece up.

When refilling using method #1, it is important to consider that the tank is no longer air tight. This will enable the e-liquid to flow into the evaporation chamber through the grooves (2j). When the cap is screwed back onto the device, this can also form a small amount of pressure which forces a bit of the e-liquid into the evaporation chamber. Both effects can potentially add up to produce a small amount of flooding in the evaporation chamber. This technique can take a bit of practice and should be conducted in a timely manner.
When refilling using method #2, it is important not to overfill the tank. Over filling the tank can produce flooding in the evaporation chamber. A small amount of air must remain in the tank to allow the pressures of both the evaporation chamber and the tank to equalize during the inhalation process by way of the ducts. It is recommended to leave approximately 2-3 mm of space at the top of the tank or up to the transparent ring during the refill process.

Liquid can be removed from the collector-tank in two ways:

1. Remove the collector-tank, remove e-liquid, screw the collector-tank back.
2. Turn Kayfun mouthpiece down; put a napkin under mouthpiece, blow Kayfun through the air intake (2c) – the excess of e-liquid from evaporation chamber will flow out through the mouthpiece to the napkin.

Before operating Kayfun

After assembling the coil, evaporation chamber and collector-tank it is recommended to check atomizer resistance. Resistance should be measured between the screw (1a) and the body (1c) of the collector-tank. You should fix detected short circuits before you start using the atomizer on battery mod.
Never use shorted Kayfun on unprotected battery mods – this can cause damage of the mod and even fire. 

Places where short circuit may occur, causes and remedies: 

For starters, inspect Kayfun for the presence of foreign metal objects that can cause a short circuit and remove them.

Place / reason: too long ends of the coil are shorting to the walls of the evaporation chamber or the opposite pole
Remedy: Cut ends of the wire, so they would not stick out from under the screw heads

Place / reason: Coil lies too low on the air duct and touches the poles by middle coils.
Remedy: Lift the coil.

Place / reason: Coils touch each other
Remedy: straighten the coils so that neighboring coils do not touch each other

Place / reason: The screw (2b) is screwed in too far touching the center pin (2h)
Remedy: Unscrew (2b) so that it does not touch the center pin (2h)

Place / reason: one of the insulators (2k), (2o) or (1b) is damaged
Solution: Replace the insulator

If the meter, on the contrary, shows the «infinite resistance», check the coil for breaks. Also check if (1a) is screwed in.

Operating Kayfun

Adjust draw tightness to comfortable level using screw (2b). Keep in mind that too strong draws can cause flooding of the evaporation chamber.

Servicing Kayfun

Kayfun servicing includes its regular refilling, cleaning/washing, replacing and dry burning the coil.

Refill Kayfun as needed.

Periodically disassemble and wash Kayfun under running water. We recommend doing this every time before switching to e-liquid with different taste.

Periodically change the coil. With the lapse of time sludge deposits can accumulate on the coil wire, which has a negative impact on the taste. This sludge can be removed by «Dry Burning».

Dry burning 

– Remove the lid, drain the excess of e-liquid from the tank, remove the evaporation chamber
– Soak up remaining liquid from the coil and wick with a cloth
– Screw Kayfun onto the battery as it is
– Press and hold the battery power button for 5-7 seconds to let the coil heat up, then release for 5-7 seconds
– Repeat this procedure till all e-liquid has evaporated from the wick and all deposits burned off the coil

Please note that in the process of dry burning wick gradually loses its ability to absorb liquid. So after 3-5 dry burns we still recommend to replace coil and a wick.

General advices 

Find comfortable nicotine level. 
When you use Kayfun for the first time, try to start from nicotine level twice less than you used to! For example, if you used 12 mg/ml liquid – start from 6 mg/ml on Kayfun. Kayfun has excellent nicotine delivery and vapor production capabilities, so it is easy to get nicotine overdose for want of habit.
Choose optimal for you nicotine level, but we do not recommend using e-liquid with level higher than 12 mg/ml with Kayfun – it can be dangerous to your health.

Find comfortable strength and duration of the draw.
When using Kayfun, draw should be different from what you got used to with conventional cartomizers and tanks. It has to be smoother and lighter. Remember that the stronger/tighter you make a puff, the more liquid comes into the evaporation chamber and the greater the chance of overflow. Find comfortable for your strength and duration that would allow all e-liquid entering the evaporation chamber to evaporate during the draw.

Find comfortable power level (voltage, resistance) 
Power is the ratio of the square of the voltage to the resistance. If you have a 2 ohm resistance coil, and the battery produces 3.7 volt – power is equal to 3.7 * 3.7 / 2 = 6.85 watts. In practice, the «comfort zone» for most of vapers is somewhere between 8 and 12 watts. Less than 8 watts will result in low vapor production and nicotine consumption. More than 12 watts can result in the loss of flavor and burnt taste.
If you are using a battery mod that has variable wattage feature, you can set desired power directly on the device.
If you are using variable voltage battery mod, measure the resistance of your coil and calculate required voltage using following formula:
Voltage = square root of the power divided by the resistance.
Of course you can also find comfortable voltage using old school trial-and- error method.
If you are planning to use Kayfun on mechanical mod or other fixed-voltage device, calculate the target coil resistance based on desired power and voltage of your device and then build the coil with target resistance. For example, when using the battery mod stabilized at 3.7 volt, coil resistance of 1.6 ohms will give you 8.56 watts of power – it is in the «comfort zone.»

To quickly calculate the power / voltage / resistance, refer to the following table:

Kv3. 1 usermanual 11

Press – draw – release 
Use the rule of «Press – draw – release». This means that you should press the power button before the draw and release it after the draw. This will give the coil time to heat up before draw and evaporate excess of e-liquid after it.

Do not fill the tank to the top
When refilling, leave small amount of air in the tank so there is something to expand during the draw and e-liquid could flow into evaporation chamber.
When refilling through the valve, stop when e-liquid covers the transparent ring; when refilling through the top cap, leave 2-3 mm of air at the top of the tank.

Keep it clean
Disassemble and wash Kayfun periodically, change / Dry burn the coil, check the integrity of the o-rings.

Treat with care 
Treat Kayfun with care, do not throw or drop it – it can cause damage and negative impact on the appearance.

Do not use for other purposes 
Kayfun is designed for vaping only, don’t fill it with liquids not intended for vaping.

Be careful with organic wicks 
Be especially careful if you are using organic materials (such as cotton) for building your wick. These materials, in contrast to silica, are combustible and dry-burning can’t be used with them. Make sure there is always enough liquid in the tank and that organic wick is soaked with e-liquid all the time

Using SS mesh wick 
Oxidized stainless steel mesh wick may be used in Kayfun, but this is not an intended operation mode for the device. Consistency of operation and overall functionality of the device in this case is not guaranteed, although it may work fine.

Possible problems and their solutions 

The problem: Short circuit / no contact
What to do: see «Before operating Kayfun»

The problem: Kayfun sloshing, flooding, liquid accumulates in the collector-tank and even flows out through the duct hole.

First you need to check if the tank is airtight. If the tank is not sealed, e-liquid will pour out of it into evaporation chamber by the principle of communicating vessels, and then it will flow into collector-tank through the air duct (2h). Check if evaporation chamber (3) is firmly screwed to the base; all o-rings are in place and intact: (2d), (4c), (5b), and especially – (5c). O-ring (5c) is the easiest one to lose during disassembly/assembly. Also make sure that the transparent ring (4b) is not cracked in case you use it.

Another place where the airtightness may be compromised is refilling valve (2l). It should let e-liquid/air to flow outside-in, but not inside-out. Test it by trying to blow in the hole (2m) – the valve should not let air to go through. If it does, try rinsing the valve with water, it is possible that dirt/mote got into it. You can use refilling bottle for rinsing the valve: fill the bottle with water, insert the nose into the valve and pump liquid through the valve back and forth. Rinse till the liquid is able to flow outside-in only. If you are sure that the valve is faulty – contact the seller/manufacturer for repair/replacement.

If you have verified that the seal is not broken, but the problem still persists – let’s try to find and eliminate the cause. There may be several more reasons for leaks:

The reason: Wick is too long and/or coil lies too low over the air duct.
What happens: If the wick is too long and it takes all the available space in the evaporation chamber, then, when swollen with e-liquid, it leans to the posts (2e) and (2f) at the level of the air duct or even higher. Liquid begins to flow from the wick to the poles and then into the duct. In this case the duct becomes kind of extension of the wick. The same happens when coil lies too low over the air duct – swollen with liquid wick can stick out between the coils and touch the poles.
What to do: shorten the wick, position it correctly on the sides of the poles, lift coil higher over the air duct.

The reason: With each draw, evaporation chamber receives more e-liquid than can be evaporated; as a result e-liquid floods the evaporation chamber and flows through the duct into the collector-tank.
There may be several reasons for this:
Reason number 1: insufficient heating temperature, or rather lack of power (voltage) to the coil, when coil can’t heat up to required temperature
What to do: Increase the power (voltage) on the battery mod or build a coil with less resistance. Probably batteries are depleted – charge/replace battery if it is the case.
Reason number 2: Too strong/long draw
What to do: Unscrew (2b) for lighter draw. Try to inhale slowly and smoothly. You need to get used to the lighter draw, especially if you are used to hard draws of conventional cartomizers and tanks.
Find comfortable for your strength and duration of the draw that would at the same time allow all e-liquid entering the evaporation chamber to evaporate during the draw and Kayfun would not overflow/slosh. You will quickly get used to this type of draw and will get the most from your Kayfun.

Minor leaks may also happen if the tank is filled completely, or it is filled more than halfway while Kayfun is lying horizontally or with mouthpiece tilted down for some time. In this case, one of the grooves (2j) could be at the top «in the air» and another one at the bottom dipped into e-liquid. In this case the air will escape from evaporation chamber through the top groove and e-liquid will flow from the tank to the evaporation chamber through the bottom groove.
Naturally this process stops as soon as both grooves are covered with e-liquid.
Make sure that both grooves are always covered with e-liquid, keep Kayfun horizontally in such a way that the mouthpiece is always slightly higher than the evaporation chamber. Even better, keep it in the vertical (or near vertical) position if your battery mod allows it.

Leaks may also happen when ambient temperature and/or pressure changes abruptly, for example when you walk into a heated room from the cold or in an airplane during takeoff/landing. It may even happen during rapid ascent/descent in express elevator. Solid (metal) parts of the device are expanding/shrinking with temperature/pressure change, changing the volume of the tank and causing e-liquid to flow into the evaporation chamber. Pressure drop causes the process similar to what happens when you draw, just without heating the coil.
To avoid leakage in such cases we recommend you to keep/transfer Kayfun upside down i.e. mouthpiece down. In this case, grooves (2j) will be at the top in the «air bubble» and when the temperature or pressure changes, air will flow between evaporation chamber and tank instead of e-liquid.

The problem: Burnt taste. This problem is opposite to the leakage. Dry wick is the most common cause of burnt taste.

The reason: Too high heating temperature, to be exact – excessive power (voltage) is applied to the coil. This heats up the coil above desired temperature
What to do: reduce the power (voltage) on the battery mod or install higher resistance coil.

The reason: No liquid left in the tank.
What to do: Refill the tank

The reason: Tails of the wick are packed too tightly in the evaporation chamber.
What happens: Too tightly packed wick may block grooves (2j) and obstruct e-liquid flow from the tank to evaporator chamber.
What to do: Place wick properly. It must lie free over the grooves (2j) but should not be pressed against or stuck into them.

The reason: The grooves (2j) are blocked
What happens: Pieces of wick are stuck in grooves (2j)
What to do: Remove pieces of wick from grooves (2j)

The reason: Holding Kayfun upside down (mouthpiece part down) all the time, for example when lying down.
What happens: In this position liquid does not cover grooves (2j). As a result, liquid doesn’t flow into evaporation chamber and does not saturate wick during the draw.
What to do: Do not use Kayfun in this position

The reason: Too long piece of the resistance wire is left between the screws and the wick.
What happens: The pieces of resistance wire that don’t contacts the wick get easily overheated
What to do: Adjust the coil position to eliminate long resistance wire legs not contacting the wick.

The reason: Resistance wire is wrapped too loose around the wick
What happens: Coils that don’t contact the wick get easily overheated
What to do: Rebuild coil correctly: resistance wire should have contact with the wick along the length of the coil

The reason: Resistance wire is wrapped too tight around the wick
What happens: Resistance wire pinches the wick and obstructs the flow of e-liquid along it, this can be the reason of burnt taste
What to do: Rebuild coil correctly: resistance wire should not pinch the wick

The problem: Burnt taste and flooding at the same time
The reason: Yes, this can also happen if during assembly you don’t place tails of the wick along the grooves but leave them lifted. This is usually done out of habit – wick tails are placed this way in some popular cartomizers.
What happens: In this case, when you draw, liquid flows into evaporation chamber, does not find wick tails to suck into (they are raised up), eventually rises over the air duct level and overflows. Meanwhile coil remains dry causing burnt taste.
What to do: Install wick correctly

The problem: The draw is too tight even when (2b) is completely unscrewed

The reason: Very large coil and/or wick
What happens: Air flow in evaporation chamber gets obstructed
What to do: Setup the coil and wick correctly

The reason: The blockage of the air duct (2h)
What happens: Something obstructs the airflow through the duct
What to do: Remove the obstruction

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WARNING: Some flavorings that make up liquids for electronic cigarettes have a devastating impact on the polycarbonate material transparent ring (4b) is made of. If you use such a liquid, please use metal ring instead of polycarbonate ring in order to avoid breakage. The manufacturer is not responsible for the destruction of a transparent ring due to usage of «aggressive» flavors and reminds you thatthe transparent ring is a consumable item and is not covered by the warranty by the manufacturer.


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